Hokkaido is the 2nd largest of the Japanese Islands, and shares a few similarities with Tasmania. There is still a great deal of unspoilt nature accross the island, and a relatively small population. There are some spectacular mountain and forest national parks which are home to an array of critters from tiny squirrels to the giant “higuma” – brown bear.
The aim of this visit was the Shiretoko National Park and Daisetsuzan National Park. Shiretoko is a peninsula jutting out into the Sea of Okhotsk, and was recently declared a World Heritage Area. Daisetsuzan is Japans largest National Park, and home to a large number of peaks in the 2000m range.
Only a few weeks ago when arriving in Japan, there was a news story describing the deaths of 10 people in Daisetsuzan. This summer has been much colder and rainier than usual in Daisetsuzan, and it seems a tour group went massively unprepared into a multi-night trek accross Daisetsuzan (Hokkaidos answer to Tassies Overland Track). The clouds came in and visibility was lost, rain came and the temperature plummeted and tragically the group became seperated and lives were lost.
My plan was to spend a couple of nights in the Asahi-dake to Kuro-dake area, in the north of the park, but the weather when we arrived was not on our side – huge amounts of rain were coming down, and we decided to write off the first day and train out to the Shiretoko area first.
First views of the Shiretoko Peninsula from near Abashiri town.
The main areas we visited were the Shiretoko “go-ko” (5 Lakes) and the forests on the slopes of Mt Rausu-dake.
The 5 Lakes are the most touristy area of the park, kind of like driving to Dove Lake and doing a lap of Dove Lake. The difference here is that the area is closed down overnight, and as we arrived in the area reasonably late in the afternoon, we only reached the second lake before we found a sign accross the path saying bears were in the vicinity of the 3rd, 4th and 5th lakes and the path was closed. I am still not sure if the bears were actually there, or if it was a management plan to keep people out of the park late in the day!
The Second Lake at Shiretoko Goko
Dawn at the 5 Lakes, Shiretoko. Shiretoko is an Ainu word that means World's End.
The next area we visited was the forests around Mt Rausu. We were greeted by some of the local deer, with some very impressive antlers. We spent around 3 hours on the lower slopes of the mountain, bear bell securely attached to packs enjoying some scenery completely different to what we have at home.
Deer on the trail to Mt Rausu-dake
Views from the trail up Mt Rausu-dake
